Heritage Walk by the Bagmati River

Kathmandu, a busy metropolis of a developing country which has centuries-old habitation crowded into a valley, is sure to surprise anyone; even people inside Nepal. The more we peek into, the more revelations about the city can be found. It has always been fascinating to learn about the history of this medieval town. The culture still continues and the pride of history is what everyone inhabiting the city will share.

During monarchy, these glorious stories were household talks among the people of Kathmandu, and played the part of intangible heritage passed down through generations. Lying in the middle of the valley, is the Teku Dobhan-Thapathali Bagmati bank with rich history and heritage, that has remained relatively unknown for decades except among the few who have heard it from generations before them or curious historians.

Starting at Teku Dobhan, the sacred confluence of the two important rivers of the valley, Bagmati and Bishnumati. As per highly acclaimed Nepali historian Baburam Acharya, it was here that the body of the first Prime Minister of Nepal Bhimsen Thapa, was thrown to vultures after his suicide in captivity. Just a few steps south from Teku Dobhan brings the gigantic river in Kathmandu Valley, the Bagmati. Along the river is a newly constructed park with stone pavement adding a little beauty to the area which was earlier a part occupied by slums and piles of timber shattered all across. On heading east lies Kalopul or the black bridge where two bridges exist, one for vehicles and another for people. On crossing Kalopul, is a complex of Hindu temples built during different eras.

Eastwards is Pachali Bhairav, revered across the Kathmandu Valley. Few steps north of Pachali Bhairav Temple is the tree where Sukra Raj Joshi (Sashtri) or one of the four “Shahid” or martyr was hanged to death for propagating democratic ideals, during the Rana regime,

Coming down towards the river side, a pagoda-style Laxmiswor Mahadev Temple is visible due to its impeccable height visible from Teku Dobhan. Along the river towards Bagmati River are the ghats made of stone pavements. The dome-shaped temple here which now lies as ramshackle was constructed by the first Rana prime minister Jung Bahadur and his preceding ruler Bom Bahadur Kunwar (Ranaji). Interesting thing is that the temple was constructed during Jung Bahadur’s visit to Europe and the ruling class performed religious rituals here during the advent of the Sino-Nepal war. This area is steeped in history, and a lover of history will rejoice in the richness of the references back in time as he walks along the banks of Bagmati River with its new settlement.

Just a little walk east from the temple complex brings one to Vishwaniketan School which is one of the few schools established eight decades ago during the advent of democratic uprising in Nepal and is an important emblem across the Bagmati River. With its classical old look of the artistic walls, one may find children running over the open grass playground on the banks of Bagmati. Another historical landmark of this area is the first office of the Prime Minister of the democratic government of Nepal, located where the National Eye Hospital resides now. The first prime minister of Nepal after democracy took over his office at Tripureswor. Heading southwards is another large Shiva Temple complex of pagoda style, which has been renovated after the devastation of 2015 earthquake and after which the town got acquired its name ie Tripureswor Mahadev.

Few meters eastwards is another dome-structured temple named Kalmochan, painted all white. As per belief, this temple was constructed overnight. However, the belief remains unverified. To this day, it is in Kalmochan Temple that the annual death rites of Rana Prime Minister Junga Bahadur, are done.

The tradition of the death rites of Nepal’s Royal Shah kings, including the ceremony when a Brahmin priest eats a “Katto” meal and then is exiled from the Kathmandu Valley in a grand procession, were held in Kalmochan Temple till recently when the much-loved King Birendra passed away in 2001.

Adjoining the Kalmochan Temple is the “Kuti” or residence made for Babas visiting Kathmandu Valley from south of Nepal and India specially during the festival of Maha Shivaratri. There are various clans of Hindu “babas” and “yogis” here. The most important are the Naga Babas, who are usually naked and visit Nepal during Shivaratri. Another important “Kuti” is for the Sikhs. Right across the Bagmati River at the Thapathali conjunction is the Gurudwara, holy site for Sikhs. It is believed that Guru Nanak once had came to Nepal and stayed in the same “Kuti” near Thapathali area. After passing by the hashish-smelling area is the wider Bagmati River segment where the heritage walk ends but going still further is the temple of Pancha Dewal or Panchayan, privately held temple of the Rana family and a cavalry training institute.