The Legends of “Rato Machhindranath” of Patan

Rato Machhindranath Rath Jatra should have started in early May, but the much awaited festival had to be delayed owing to the lockdown in Kathmandu Valley and all over Nepal due to global pandemic COVID-19. In regret of the delay Machhindranath also believed to be a reincarnation of Shiva, was offered “Kshama Puja” or rituals seeking forgiveness in an elaborate ceremony on Sept. 5. With the complicated situation of COVID at the moment and the valley still under strict lockdown, the Jatra is not likely to proceed on its usual journey for tour around the city of Patan.

However, authorities in charge comprising Guthi Sansthan, Jatra Management Committee, Jyapu Samaj and the local government are working to find an amicable solution to set the auspicious dates, complete the ritual of chariot pulling and restore Machhindranath back to Bungamati before “Malmas” or “Adhikmas” (literally translating to extra month when one refrains from starting any good deed) which starts in mid September, so that Lord Machhindranath is back home to Bungamati before the big festival of Bhairab Jatra just before Dashain.

It is believed that Machhindranath was brought to the Kathmandu Valley from Kamaru Kamakhya in Assam, India, in the 7th century under the leadership of the Lichhavi King Narendra Dev with Tantric Bandhu Dutta from Kathmandu, and a local resident from Patan, to rescue the country from a severe drought.

As per legend, the famine was brought about by the wrath of Guru Gorakhnath, one of the two disciples of Machhindranath. Apparently, Gorakhnath, had not been recognized or welcomed by residents when he had visited Patan. To avenge his humiliation, Gorakhnath with his magical powers took control of all the “Nagas” or serpents who were said to be in charge of rainfall in the valley. With the “Nagas” in captivity the valley received no rain and severe drought persisted for many years.

In a move to bring an end to the terrible drought, advisers of King Narendra Dev are believed to have advised the king to seek the blessings of Machhindranath from Assam, Guru of Gorakhnath. It is believed that when Machhindranath was brought to the valley, Gorakhnath went for “Darshan” of Machhindranath, causing the serpents to be released, the valley began to receive rain and the drought ended. Therefore, Machhindranath has been revered and loved through the centuries by the residents of the valley as Karunamaya or the “Compassionate One” and “Bunga Dyo” or “Lord of Bungamati”. The residents of the valley are said to organize the annual festival in gratitude of Machhindranath for having rescued them from the terrible famine.

It is also believed that an agreement was made at the time when Machhindranath was installed in Bungamati, that if for any reason the annual chariot festival cannot take place in Patan, the idol of Machhindranath must be handed over and installed in Bhaktapur. The residents of Bungamati are especially attached to Machhindranath who is their “protector deity”.

Machhindranath Jatra usually starts early May and ends by mid June. Each detail and each date of the festival is planned in advance in close consultation with astrologers and as per auspicious signs. The Jatra begins with the construction of the 48-feet high chariot made with wood and cane in Pulchowk. Skillful artisans from Patan namely from the Neku and Maharjan families who have been passed the knowledge and art by their forefathers, are engaged in special rituals to paint the idol and build the chariot with cane, wood frames and ropes.

The idol is painted twice a year while the chariot is built without using any nails. The chariot is believed to be protected by Bhairav and a Bhairav is placed in front and on each of the four wheels of the chariot. Similarly, the ropes of the chariot are said to be spirited by divine serpents or “Nagas” when being pulled. The chariot of Machhindranath is accompanied by a smaller chariot of Minnath or Chakhuwa Dyo, believed to be another Bodhisattva by Buddhists and the “God of Death” Yama by Hindus. The chariot becomes wholly consecrated after the installation of Machhindranath idol on it.

As per tradition, the festival is initially begun by Hindu Tantric priests who then hand it over the Buddhist Tantric priests of Vajrayana sect who perform the main “puja” and also complete the rest of the festival. The whole festival of Rato Machhindranath is based on the Vajrayana Tantric system as per Prem K. Khatri on his book “Rain for Drought: An Anthropological Inquiry into the Structure of Buddhist Festivals of Kathmandu”.

The Jatra, which goes on for 16 days, is a procession that starts from Pulchowk as it is pulled through the city via Natole, Gabahal, Mangal Bazaar, Sundhara, Lagankhel, Kumaripati before ending at Jawalakhel. Both Hindus and Buddhists, especially youngsters from Patan, partake in the festival enthusiastically. On the particular route from Iti to Thati, the chariot is pulled by only women as per tradition.

With the help of big wheels, the chariot is pulled by devotees tugging at its eight strong ropes ensuring balance to keep it from falling on its city tour. Falling of the chariot is believed to spell as bad omen and is, therefore, avoided at all costs by the pullers. There is also a ritual when a coconut is thrown from the pinnacle of the chariot, and the person who receives the coconut and offers it to Bunga Dyo is said to beget a son in the near future.

The Jatra concludes at Jawalakhel with Bhoto Jatra when a jewel-studded vest is displayed from the balcony of the chariot of Rato Machhindranath in the presence of Kumari “Living Goddess” of Patan, head of the state, and the general public.

Machhindranath is then restored to Bungamati, where the deity returns for the next six months. The remaining six months of Machhindranath are spent at the Machhindranath Temple in the southern side of the Patan Durbar Square complex. Every twelve years, Machhindranath Rath Jatra starts all the way from Bungamati through Bhainsipati, Nakkhu, Bhanimandal, Jhamsikhel and Pulchowk from where it starts its regular tour of the city of Patan.

The Newar community of Patan enjoy the festival by partaking in the rituals before the chariot festival, pulling it through the city and seeking grace from Machhindranath for ample rain, good harvest and a good year. The festival is also celebrated at individual homes and in the community with large get togethers, sumptuous traditional meals and singing, dancing and merry making.

The banner photo shows RatoMachhindranath on its way from Bungamati to Puchowk, a ritual that occurs every twelve years.

Banner photo credit: The image has been obtained from photonepal.travel contributed by PJ Club, Kathmandu.