Chandragiri -Chitlang -Kulekhani

The Chandragiri-Chitlang-Kulekhani road is a historic route coming into or

going out of Kathmandu and was once the only means to enter this

enchanting valley. Vintage photographs show sixty porters struggling to carry

a motor car along this road which was quite a feat considering the uphill climb

to the Chandragiri pass before descending to Kathmandu. Although once an

important thoroughfare, the road rarely sees long distance travelers these

days but serves as a good hike to Chitlang and Kulekhani.

Chitlang is a fertile valley with a small stream flowing through the open

verdant rice fields and vegetable patches. With the use of water from this

stream for irrigation, the valley supplies a larger amount of vegetables to

Kathmandu in the form of cabbage, radishes and more. The village is spread

along the main road but actually consists of several different settlements with

the original Newar village sitting in the center between the other settlements.

The first settlement encountered is inhabited predominantly by Tamang

people followed by the current center of Chitlang which has a police post,

shops, and a few eateries. The resort and one of the homestays are on the

other side of the stream while the other homestays are not far from the main

road. Amazingly walking from one end of Chitlang to the other end takes

almost an hour.

Some of the deposed Malla royalty are said to have escaped to Chitlang after

they were conquered by Prithvinarayan Shah in the 18th Century. A little above

the main road a small shrine still remains, where they are believed to have

prayed to their ancestral gods. The shrine has a number of weapons hanging

on the wall. The entrance to a cave can be seen here which they are

supposed to have used to reach the water spout (this is also known as

Narayan Hiti as the one in Kathmandu.) A large spherical block of stone

believed to be a cannonball lies near the royal shrine.

There are several forms of transport available, but hiking or a ride on the

cable car is a far more enjoyable means of reaching Chitlang. The cable car

drops off passengers on the ridge from where it is an easy hike down.

Presently there are five functional homestays and a resort where you can

spend a night or two. Some of the homestays are basic but they are

constantly improving their facilities with the addition of shower rooms etc. One, in particular, is more of a regular lodge but is popular for goat cheese production. The proprietor was trained in Belgium and France and always has

fresh cheese available for his guests as well as for sale. You can visit his

cheese producing facility accompanied by him.

A hike to the Kulekhani reservoir past Chitlang takes about two hours if you

take the shortcut avoiding the motor road which takes a more long and

winding route. There are lodges and eateries at Kulekhani and many Nepali

travelers come for the fish delicacies and some take a dip as well. One can

catch a bus back to Kathmandu from here as there are not many passengers

traveling from Chitlang. Most of the passengers are picked up here before

heading for Kathmandu.

GETTING THERE

There are several means to reach Chitlang from the capital city and with the

introduction of a cable car to the top of the ridge, one can reduce the hike to

just going downhill from the top after a short ride. Buses and smaller vehicles

leave from Kathmandu and reach Taukhel near Chitlang via Kulekhani.

Chitlang is an easy one hour walk from Taukhel. Buses from Hetauda go all

the way to Chitlang also via Kulekhani and leave for Hetauda in the morning.

Above Thankot is a settlement known as Godam from where some pickup

vehicles leave for Chitlang in the morning and go via the Chandragiri pass; it’s

the shortest route taking about an hour. One set of buses travel via Pharping

near Dakshinkali and takes about three hours but don't reach Chitlang, with

Taukhel being the closest point. The other vehicles take the old Tribhuvan

Highway to reach Kulekhani. The pick-up vehicles to Kathmandu from

Chitlang leaves in the morning while the bus leaves from Taukhel in the

afternoon.

ACCOMMODATION

There are several homestays which are controlled by the Home Stay

Association (the office is beside the main road) which decides the rates and

where the guests should stay. The resort is on the other side of the river.