Nepal 25th April – 7th May 2015

Gill Burn

UK

Visited Nepal: June 4, 2015

– July 2, 2015

Our first had experience of what we felt during our stay and how it is important the world knew the truth about the earthquake.

thApril 2015 an earthquake measuring 7.8 on the Richter scale struck Nepal. We were on a yoga course at Begnas Lake some 10km east of Pokhara and some 200km west of Kathmandu. At the exact moment the first quake struck Gill was talking on our mobile to Anju in Kathmandu. Having just exchanged pleasantries they both realized that an earthquake was in progress and the call ceased. The tremor was violent, very frightening and seemed to last for ages. Gill texted her brother in the UK to tell him that we were safe and to ask for news on the earthquake as we had no Internet access. We were shocked at the increasing scale of destruction and loss of life being reported. We worried about the safety of friends in Kathmandu and at Everest Base Camp. Three days later back in Pokhara we felt safe. Lakeside life was continuing much as ‘normal’. We were very surprised when Harry’s son Peter asked if we were OK as Pokhara was being reported as somewhere devastated by the earthquake. We flew back to Kathmandu on Thursday 30

thApril. The capital’s airport was very busy and we noticed Indian Army helicopters bringing injured and displaced people back from rural areas. There was a huge Indian media presence. During our taxi journey back to Tensing Chowk where we live we saw people camping on open spaces and we noticed damage to some older buildings. Because of the media reports we were expecting to see destruction on a much larger scale. Back home we were very happy to see the family and catch up on their news. We also spoke to our friend who had been caught in the avalanche at Everest Base Camp. We have now been back in Kathmandu for a week and have been into the city centre several times. Initially the roads were very quiet and many shops and businesses were closed. However, almost two weeks after the quake, life seems to be returning back to normal for most people in Kathmandu. Thamel, the main tourist district is devoid of tourists as clearly many have taken their government’s advice and left Nepal or not travelled here at all. The Buddhist Stupa at Boudha was almost deserted yesterday. It has been reported in the local press that over one million Nepalis have left Kathmandu, many to return to their villages. There has been major damage in some parts of Kathmandu – everyone has seen the images of collapsed buildings and people being rescued from the rubble. Going into the city centre we have seen some collapsed buildings but mostly fallen walls and masonry.

We have used our time back in Kathmandu to catch up on both international and domestic reporting of the earthquake and its’ aftermath. We have also listened and talked to Nepali people as well as viewing social media sites. We have reached our own conclusions about the response to the “Great Earthquake” as it is now referred to by the Nepali press.

The earthquake was expected and predicted. It was not a matter of ‘if’ but ‘when’. Amazingly, the Nepal Government told international and domestic media that it never saw the earthquake coming. Remarkable, when it’s own Geology Department had been predicting the next ‘big one’ for a number of years. The U.N. in Kathmandu practice a disaster drill every Saturday.

The Government immediately asked for foreign aid and stated that it would manage the relief operation. Money has been pledged in abundance – $154million according to the local press as of 6th May 2015. Although much aid money has been pledged little money has been deposited into Government Department coffers – only $3million so far. It is hardly surprising that donors do not wish to use Government channels to distribute donated money when you consider the endemic corruption in the Government. Most people we talk to believe aid money will be diverted elsewhere and would not reach the intended recipients.

Another route is to use NGO’s (Non Governmental Organisations) to distribute aid money. The Nepal Government argues that after salaries and administrative expenses are paid over 50% of donors’ cash will have been used on administration.

We anticipate that the Commission for the Investigation of Abuse of Authority will be very busy in the future.

The Government has been heavily criticized by everybody for not getting material aid to the disaster areas quickly. Bureaucracy at Kathmandu Airport (Nepal’s only international airport) has resulted in vital relief supplies being held up. Only tents and tarpaulins are exempt from import tax. All goods coming in from overseas are being inspected. Consequently relief supplies are piling up at the airport.

The Finance Minister appealed to international donors to send tents, tarps, grains and other basic food supplies rather than tins of tuna fish and mayonnaise. We agree that the right type of aid must be sent but we are surprised as to why he is asking for grains. It is reported that the SAARC food bank currently holds 486,000 tonnes of grain. Nepal is currently the Chair of SAARC.

As with any disaster, there are people who reportedly have been exploiting the situation. The local press reports there is a thriving black market and overpricing of essential foodstuffs. Families who have left homes damaged by the quake have been charged 500 rupees or more a night to sleep under a tarpaulin. Looters have ransacked abandoned properties. Food aid has been sold rather than distributed for free. Official aid distribution has been haphazard with several members of the same family claiming aid and taking supplies whilst other people in greater need but less able have missed out. It is not possible to assess how big a problem these issues actually are.

Media coverage initially focused on the loss of life and destruction in Kathmandu but has recently shifted to rural areas seriously affected or totally destroyed by the earthquake. These include many areas we have visited – Langtang Valley, Gorkha, Tsum Valley, Manaslu, Sankhu and Nargakot etc

Having lived in Nepal for over a year, in our opinion, some of the reporting is misinformed and offers a ‘westerncentric’ view. For example:

• There are frequent power cuts . Kathmandu normally has no electricity (load shedding) for 16 hours a day.
• Water supplies are running out . Water bowsers are a common sight in the city and many properties do not have access to mains water.
• Kathmandu is running out of food . Not judging by our visit yesterday to a supermarket where the shelves were full or the shops in our area which are selling plenty of fresh produce.
• People are defecating in the open because there is no sanitation . There was no sanitation in many areas before the earthquake. A walk by the river would testify to this and challenge delicate western senses.

The western media made much of the commendable role played by the 4000 rescue personnel from 34 countries. 500 have already returned to their own countries and most of the remainder are preparing to leave Nepal although some medical personnel and engineers will remain.

There was little reporting or recognition given to the work done by the 130,000 personnel from Nepal’s army and police force or the magnificent efforts made by ordinary people.

In many cases Nepali people have organized themselves locally and reached earthquake victims way before the official effort. And furthermore, their help is ongoing.

A couple of examples:

• Anju and Mingma together with many friends organized themselves to create a hub and collect provisions, medical supplies, blankets, tents etc. that they then distributed. Much of their own money was used to buy these items. Using social media they were able to identify areas where their help was most needed.
• People in Pokhara such as our friends at Pokhara Mountain Bikes and the Crown Hotel gathered and distributed aid to villages in the Gorkha District, which was at the epicenter of the earthquake.

We know that people are re-building their homes and lives and taking the lead in reorganizing their villages.

Yesterday, a driver at Mingma’s office returned to work after 10 days and reported that he had used the time to rebuild his house.

All these direct actions show fortitude and resilience and how strong the people of Nepal actually are. They are re-building their country.

In our opinion, the international media, including the BBC have given the impression that Kathmandu is completely leveled and the whole country is in ruin. This is not the case. In fact, only 10 out of the 75 districts in Nepal have been seriously affected by the earthquake.

We have been reflecting on how best to help.

Tourism is a huge earner for Nepal. Over one million people are employed in the tourist industry. Without the tourist $ Nepal has a bleak future. In light of recent events, tourists have left the country in droves. Many people have also cancelled trips due to take place in the main autumn season and as far ahead as Spring 2016.

We have decided that the best way we can help is to stay in the country and contribute directly to the Nepalese economy. To that end, tomorrow we are going on a final trek to the Limi Valley in West Nepal. In our small way we will be providing employment both directly for trek staff and indirectly to the service industry. We feel it is important for Nepalis to have the opportunity to earn money.

We also hope that this sends out a big message that Nepal is open for business and encourages others to visit and enjoy the magnificent scenery and unique culture.

We are also highly delighted that our good friend Maralyn is joining us on the trek. She has overcome many obstacles and has secured insurance and flights and arrives in Kathmandu this afternoon. We look forward to our next adventure with her and only hope that the mules are better behaved on this trip than they were on our last trek in Humla.