Odyssey to Nepal: Warmness of the Nepalese

Author:

Jaron Soh

Singapore

Visited Nepal: July 12, 2015

– July 29, 2015

Radiant, beautiful, Nepal.

My odyssey to Nepal was almost a month ago. My pilot trip to the country, my adventures in the valley have left me with unforgettable memories of the beauty of the country and its people.

To the person reading this: You may be wondering whether it is unsafe to visit Nepal. After all, the media has always focused on the sensational, the disastrous and of the devastation wrought upon the country. Nobody can be faulted for thinking the country is unsafe for visitors. But the reality in Nepal is a stark contrast from what media reports portray. I am not faulting media reports for coverage of the world’s disasters – press coverage does galvanise the inflow of much needed aid to countries during times of need.

However, what is apparent is that the media often neglects the inherent beauty and goodness of countries like Nepal. By its single-minded focus on the wrecked and the damned, It fails to inform the world of the beauty of countries like Nepal. The warmness of the Nepalese, the spectacular sights of the plains of the Kathmandu Valley, and the intricacies of traditional Nepalese handicrafts are seldom featured on the world stage. My initial concerns with safety were quickly dispelled by my positive experiences in the valley. I hope by reading my experiences, yours will too.

Thamel

I spent the first half of my trip nestled in the capital of Kathmandu. Exiting the airport was smooth and without a hitch, and before long, I found myself in the touristic district of Thamel. I suppose Thamel is where most tourists start their journey in Nepal. Definitely built for tourists, Thamel was filled with streets upon streets of stores peddling their wares and restaurants ready for customers with their English menus. Contrary to my initial assumptions: almost all the shops were open, I accessed the internet fairly smoothly, and there were few rubble strewn on the streets.

I spent my first day exploring the touristic streets of Thamel. There weren’t many tourists, and many businesses nestled in wait amongst the unusually quiet streets of Thamel. As someone who dislike crowds, I was silently glad for the absence of the hustle and bustle. Exquisite Nepalese jewelry, resonating singing bowls and filling my palate with Nepalese cuisine were the highlight of my first day in Nepal. A lack of business also meant that many artisans and shopowners had the time to converse, and the general consensus from my conversations was unequivocal: tourism has dipped significantly since the earthquake in April, despite most of the rubble having been cleared and buildings having been stabilised. Tourists have yet to return in great numbers. “Maybe after the monsoon season, they will,” a shopkeeper hoped.

You can still catch glimpses of rebuilding efforts ongoing in Thamel, though they are by no means a common sight.

Bhaktapur & Lalitpur

My next few days were spent exploring the ancient cities of Bhaktapur and Lalitpur. Both Bhaktapur and Lalitpur were rich with heritage. Traditional monuments and buildings were ubiquitous across the two cities. By account of their heritage, however, Bhaktapur and Lalitpur suffered considerable greater damage than Thamel. Many of the traditional buildings were over centuries old, and with some areas incurred greater damage than others.

Both cities had an abundance of sights to behold and wares to be bought. I visited a myriad of temples, dozens of artisan stores, and in Bhaktapur, locals offered me the chance to try juju dhau, a local delicacy heralded as the “King of curds”. Juju dhau is a naturally sweet delicacy, and has been in production for centuries – many often travel to Bhaktapur just for a bowl of this dessert!

Juju dhau, the King of Curds. Very delicious!

Discovering local craftsmanship: Having my first silver ring hand-forged by an artisan (Prem) in the ancient Newar city of Bhaktapur.

An aerial view of Pokhara

I spent the next part of my trip by the magical lakeside town of Pokhara, basking in the hues of blue by Lake Phewa. Despite being largely unaffected by the earthquake as compared to Kathmandu, the lakeside town of Pokhara was far quieter than Thamel, with shops and restaurants along its streets often empty. I had thought Thamel was quiet – but Pokhara was comparatively a ghost town. Maybe it was the lack of business to attend to, I noticed many locals took to fishing along the lake throughout the day.

Children fishing by Lake Phewa

As someone who enjoys nature and scenery, Pokhara was the perfect getaway for me. I enjoyed a great few afternoons by the lake, with a book in one hand and an ice cold drink in the other. Pokhara offered me the perfect opportunity to enjoy some peace and quiet, and time passed at a pace perfect for introspection. There was something mystically calming about the serenity of Lake Phewa as it was juxtaposed against the lush greenery of the valley.

A few kilometres from the central part of town… I was greeted with this view.

Pokhara has a wealth to offer: for those adventurous – paragliding, trekking trips and a myriad of other adventures. I chose a trip up a hill to the pristine Shanti Stupa. Traditional handicrafts and intricate jewelry forged by native artisans can be found. A multitude of restaurants, bars and hotels are dotted across town. And of course the beautiful meandering Lake Phewa makes for great exploration.

Pokhara is a great place to explore by bicycle, bike or even by foot. I chose short afternoon hikes, traversing past the streets and roads deeper into the less urbanised parts of town. I was always greeted by new views of lush fields and the majestic hills. At times being the only tourist on the roads, I had many chances to converse with inquisitive locals – theirs with their limited knowledge of English, and myself with my limited knowledge of Nepali. While we never really fully comprehended each other’s words, a smile was all that was needed for mutual understanding.

If you have a severe case of wanderlust, Nepal might just be your panacea. I will always remember the beauty of the valley and the warmness of the smiles of the Nepalese.

Nepal will rise again, and I’ll see you again in time.