The Road Not Taken: Dudh Kund – Numbur Trek in Solu

Katja Staartjes

The Netherlands

In December 2016 we (Katja Staartjes and Henk Wesselius) were 3 weeks in Nepal with the primary objective to visit two reconstruction projects in Solo area (south of Mount Everest).We flew into Phaplu with our friend Chhiree Sherpa (Best Nepal Trekking) and we first attended the opening ceremony at the medical post in Khastap/Basa (just east of Phaplu); a true spectacle with singing, dancing and speeches. After the grand opening of the medical center we visited the support project of the NKBV (Royal Dutch Climbing & Mountaineering Club), on the Dudh Kund trail. They funded the construction of 3 new bridges and a water tap leading to the holy Dudh Kund lake.

Every year in August full moon about 3,000 pilgrims visit this beautiful lake at the foot of the mountain giants Karyolung and Numbur. Further, the path in the summer is widely used by shepherds who flock to the Kharkas with their yaks. Only a few tourists visit the area.

Not many people know about it! Like us: although we have been 8 times in the Khumbu area and we crossed whole Nepal by the Great Himalaya Trail, we had never heard before of the Dudh Kund trail, which is situated only 20 kilometres south west of Lukla.

The trail runs from Thaksindo north to the holy Dudh Kund lake at 4,600 metres altitude. You need a tent here, and tourists mostly trek up and down the stunning valley. Shepherds sometimes cross over to the Khumbu valley (east) for selling their butter and cheese in Namche. Another possibility for a longer trek, is crossing over to the Numbur circuit in the west. This is what we have done.

What an amazing trip! First of all, the beautiful Dudh Kund valley, on the ridge you get amazing views of the Khumbu with Everest, Lhotse, Thamserku, Kantega, as I have never seen before. The lake area is beautiful, wild and pristine. We camped at Sarkaripati (3,500 m), where is the new water tap, and at Saharsbeni (4,000 m).

Crossing over to the Numbur circuit you cross the new bridge at Saharsabeni to the east, and go up to a pass of 4,450 metres: a tremendous mountain setting. In 1 long day we went straight to the village of Lacchewar (2,700 m). The next day we passed a primeval forest to Ngeju Kharka and then climbed up to the west by the pass Gyajo La (4,880 m) through a stunning mountain scenery with the peaks Numbur and Sarmoche. A beautiful route, Himalayan pur sang!

This area should be given more prominence: technically not difficult at all and very accessible from Phaplu and Shivalaya.

N.B. in Nepal is increasing mobile coverage! During our stay, I could regularly post updates by mobile on my personal facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/katja.staartjes.7?fref=ts

At the Foundation’s website Topaspiraties (http://stichtingtopaspiraties.nl/blog/ ) you can read more information about our reconstruction projects. With great thanks to all donors! And to the coordination of the projects by Chhiree Sherpa (Best Nepal Trekking).

More info: www.katjastaartjes.nl