Vihars of Bhaktapur

When you think about a country to visit, where you would want to find the greatest of diversities

in terms of culture, people, or landscape, that too considering its small geographical area, Nepal

without question comes instantly to mind. From the southern hot plains to the tallest mighty peak

Mt. Everest, inhabited by more than 50 ethnic groups whose practice of age-old customs and

traditions is a way of life today, a really beautiful part of this Himalayan nation is the way the

Nepali people have lived here in religious co-existence for centuries.

The City of Bhaktapur is unique in this aspect, where we find the Hindu and Buddhist religions

both being faithfully followed, although the population is predominantly Hindu. While exploring

the cultural sites and monuments present, one will come across more than a dozen of the “hidden

gems” or vihars, Buddhist monasteries, and called “bahal” in Nepali, in this once ancient

kingdom. Since the medieval times, they have served as religious sanctities as well as stood the

test of time as historical examples of Buddhist art and architecture.

A Bhaktapurian and a good friend of ours gave me and my sister a tour many years back. Since

then I’ve had the good fortune to visit the city time and again and, as always, for me the allure of

Bhaktapur never ceases to dissipate. I especially love the paced out feel inside a vihar’s

courtyard, where I can absorb the beauty of wood- and metal- carvings as well as pay my

respects to the Buddha. The Chaturvarna Mahavihar or Tadhi Chen Baha (“Mahavihar” meaning

great monastery and “Baha” meaning Buddhist monastery in the Newari language), located to

the east of the Durbar Square has an enchantingly serene atmosphere. After entering through the

main entrance, which is flanked by two stone lions, one encounters two chaityas and a Dharma

Dhatu Mandala. An outstanding vihar of Bhaktapur, its main deity is Kwapa dyo (Buddha’s

image sitting in “Vajrasana”, on the heels in kneeling position and showing the “Bhumisparsa”

earth touching gesture), represented in the form of Padmapani Lokeswor, which is opposite to

the main entrance. The vihar, which dates back to the 15th century, contains one of the images of

Dipankar Buddha, five in total, and is appreciated for its struts that showcase intricate carvings.

Chaturvarna Mahavihar (the vihar was restored after Nepal’s 2015 earthquake) or Dipankar

Vihar (mentioned later) is also the residence of the Yekanta Kumari in Bhaktapur.

Lokeswor Mahavihar or Laskadyo Baha is located in Itachhen Tole. Better known as the

Bhaktapur Shrine of Matshyendranath, it is two storied with a roof surmounted by two smaller

roofs, the lower smaller roof tiled and the upper roof made of gilded copper. A golden pinnacle

“gajur” shaped like a chaitya adorns the top portion. Dating back to the 17th century A.D., the

shrine, Kwapa dyo is represented in the form of Padampani Lokeswor and is worshipped by the

local people as Loknath. Several chaityas and mandala are located in front of the temple.

Strangely enough although Bhaktapur’s population indicates a much higher percentage of

Hindus, the presence of Buddhist vihars and shrines here do not get undermined. Perhaps it is

because of the religious tolerance practiced by both faiths in Nepal that makes a social harmony,

where one feels free to display one’s devoutness for both religions. Interestingly, according to

Lain Singh Bangdel, who was one of the leading authorities in Nepalese art, “Vajrayana

(esoteric) Buddhism in the Kathmandu Valley has its distinctive features, which could be closely

tied with certain aspect of Hinduism… there has been a tendency in scholarship to interpret.

Newar Buddhism as dominance of Hinduism, deliberate syncretism, or basically Hinduism in all

but name. The main focus of Buddhism remained quite active….” In a way, the vihars of

Bhaktapur do become an integral part of the city landscape, where the chief inhabitants, the

Newars, regardless of their faith, hold both Buddhism and Hinduism in high esteem.

The Inacho Baha is a well preserved vihar and the main deity, Kwapa dyo, faces the west. A

carved window is showcased in the first storey flanked by two smaller windows. Said to belong

to the late Malla period by historians, the vihar’s courtyard consist of three chaityas with the

middle one surrounded by oil lamps. Other well-known vihars in Bhaktapur are Dipankar

Mahavihar, Prasannasheel Mahavihar, Sukra-varna Mahavihar, Jaya Kirti Mahavihar, and Muni

Vihar among others. Considered as the oldest vihar in Bhaktapur, the Dipankar Mahavihar is

situated at Kwathandau. Its architectural design is based on the Hindu Agan-chhen style thus

making it unique among the vihars. Also located at Kwathandau, the Prasannasheel Mahavihar

has resemblance to a three storey Newari house and an exclusive place among the vihars. It

consists of the Padmapani Lokeswor including some chaityas and dates back to 1914 A.D.

Important from an architectural and historical point of view, the Sukra-varna Mahavihar or

Kuthu Baha is situated behind the bus park and an inscription indicates it was built in 1748 A.D.

during King Ranajit Malla’s rule. Inside the courtyard is a chaitya and a stone icon of

Shakyamuni Buddha in the form of Kwapa dyo. One of the most exceptional vihars of the

Kathmandu Valley, the Jaya Kirti Mahavihar is situated nearby the Na-Pukhu Pond. The Kwapa

dyo is represented by a clay icon of the Buddha and a large chaitya is located in the middle of the

vihar’s courtyard with inscriptions dated to the 1700s. The Muni Vihar which is well-known due

to its monastery is situated at Inacho. The vihar according to an inscription states that a devout

family from Bhaktapur constructed the monastery in 1655 A.D. offering it to monks from the

Tashilhunpo Monastery in Tibet. A place for spiritual practice, the Muni Vihar is a popular

destination for Buddhists and Hindus alike.

The “hidden gems” or vihars are generally open for visitations; however, it is recommended to

make visits during important events such as the sacred month of Gunlā celebrated by Buddhist

Newars. It is then that they read scriptures, fast, and offer worship in holy places so visitors at

this time are able to observe activities experientially. I think reciting the mantra “Buddham

saranam gacchami… (I go to the Buddha for refuge…)” is for me spiritually rewarding in

attaining an awakened and fulfilled mind. I feel it helps calm my outlook towards life and live it

as I learn – with dignity, grace, and acceptance.